Dryer not heating up? Here is what to check
A dryer that tumbles without heat is frustrating precisely because it looks like it is working. The good news is that the failure is almost always in a short list of heat-related components, and a couple of them you can rule out from the laundry room floor before anyone opens a panel.
Rule out the vent first
A blocked vent causes overheating, and overheating trips the safety devices that cut the heat. If you fix the fuse without fixing the airflow, you will be back in a month. Before anything else, confirm the exterior hood opens with strong flow and the transition duct behind the dryer is not crushed. This single step prevents most repeat failures.
Electric dryers: check both legs of the 240-volt supply
An electric dryer draws 240 volts for the heating element but only 120 volts for the motor and controls. If one leg of the circuit is lost at a double-pole breaker or a worn outlet, the drum spins normally and the heat disappears. Reset the breaker fully off then on. If that does not restore heat, the circuit needs testing.
Thermal fuse and thermostats
The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that opens permanently when the exhaust gets too hot, usually because of a restricted vent. Once open, most electric dryers still tumble but never heat. High-limit thermostats and cycling thermostats fail in similar ways. Parts are inexpensive, typically $15 to $40, but they sit behind the rear or front panel.
Electric heating element failure
The coiled element inside its housing can break or short to the housing after years of thermal cycling. A broken coil means no heat at all; a shorted one can produce heat that never shuts off. Visual inspection often shows the break. Element replacement typically runs $200 to $360 installed depending on brand and how much disassembly is required.
Gas dryers: igniter, coils, and flame sensor
On a gas model, listen at the start of a cycle. A clicking or glowing igniter that never produces flame usually means failed gas valve coils. No glow at all typically means a cracked igniter or an open thermal fuse cutting the circuit. A flame that lights then quits quickly points at the flame sensor. Gas work belongs with a qualified technician.
Sensor dry versus timed dry
If clothes come out damp but the dryer clearly does heat, the problem may be moisture sensor bars inside the drum coated with fabric softener residue. The coating fools the control into ending the cycle early. Wipe the metal strips with rubbing alcohol. If timed dry works fine and sensor cycles do not, that is your answer.
Frequently asked questions
Can I bypass a blown thermal fuse?
No. That fuse is the last defense against a fire in an overheating dryer. Replace it and correct the airflow restriction that opened it.
Why does my dryer heat sometimes but not always?
Intermittent heat usually points to a cycling thermostat, a marginal element with a hairline break, or a loose terminal connection that opens as parts expand.
Is a gas or electric dryer cheaper to fix?
Electric repairs are generally simpler and cheaper. Gas repairs involve the burner assembly and should never be attempted without proper training.